London, Italian Restaurant Guide

This modern Italian “favourite” makes good use of its large and attractive terrace in Chelsea’s peaceful Duke of York’s Square, and has a big and loyal following as a result. Fans say the food is “interesting” too, but more sceptical diners feel that’s debatable. It also has a twin in the City, which attracts much less comment.

It’s pleasing that this monolithic arts centre boasts a respectable restaurant, in the form of this Searcy’s-run operation, which is ideally situated for a meal around a performance, and uniformly well-rated. There are niggles though – even those who applaud “very decent Italian cuisine” can note “the odd lapse” in execution, or say the overall meal “lacked finesse”.

“Ideal if you’re visiting the Barbican” – this “reliable, genuine, family-run Italian” opposite Smithfield market is a “very friendly little place”. The “great pizza and pasta” and “very good Italian wine list” are “fairly priced” and represent “good VFM”, especially for the area.

“Beautiful fresh pasta, served from the heart by knowledgeable Italians” is the attractive offer at this small group, spun out of a famous veteran Soho deli (est. 1944) in the past five years under private equity outfit White Rabbit. The “food is good and good value, though limited and very focused on the pasta”. There are now branches in King’s Cross, the City’s Bloomberg Arcade and most recently Marylebone; the farthest-flung is in Tokyo, while Clapham Old Town has been long promised.