Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 3rd December 2023. ***** The Evening Standard “Food with a magnificence and flavour dynamism that completely speaks for itself.” In The Evening Standard, Jimi Famurewa reviewed Akara, chef “Aji Akokomi’s more casual sister to Akoko” in the […]
The self-styled ‘underground guerrilla pop-up’ chef known as Whyte Rushen is to open his first permanent restaurant in Hackney this month. With a CV that includes Brat, Kerridge’s and Scully of St James’s to his name, Whyte fuses classical and pop elements in creations such as oysters topped with Monster Munch. He also takes in […]
Kinkally, a new restaurant and bar inspired by the food of Georgia in the Caucasus Mountains, opens in Fitzrovia’s foodie enclave of Charlotte Street next Wednesday (6 December). Named after ‘khinkali’ – large meat-filled twisted dumplings from Georgia that are massively popular throughout the former Soviet region – the venture is a first restaurant from […]
The London restaurant world this week mourned the passing of Russell Norman, creator of Polpo, Spuntino and Trattoria Brutto, who has died suddenly at the age of 57. Born and brought up in London’s northwestern outskirts, Russell was a host of legendary charm host who cut his teeth in the trade as a barman-turned-restaurant manager […]
GAIA, a ‘refined Greek taverna’ based in Dubai, opens its first London branch next Friday (8 December) on a prominent Mayfair corner site where Dover Street meets Piccadilly. Founded in 2018 by British-Nigerian chef Izu Ani, who grew up in Tottenham, and Russian-born entrepreneur Evgeny Kuzin, the concept already has branches in Monte Carlo and […]
Bakery chain Greggs is making its first foray into ‘fine dining’ with a Parisian-inspired Christmas pop-up co-hosted by department store Fenwick in Newcastle, the city where both are based. Bistro Greggs, which opens today, is serving staples such as the chain’s famous sausage rolls paired with fancier sides such as truffled dauphinoise potatoes, chicory and […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 26th November 2023. ***** Tributes have poured in from all quarters since it was announced on Thursday that Russell Norman, founder of ground-breaking restaurants from Polpo to Brutto, died aged 57 after a short illness. David Ellis […]
A new ‘wine pub’ and restaurant with ten wines on tap (and just a couple of beers) opens in Spitalfields Market next week. Alfi’s ‘draught’ options range from an organic biodynamic Riesling and an orange wine to several fizzies including a pet nat. The operation is being launched by Ben Hodges and Alex Lewis in […]
The company behind the Birch duo of luxury food and wellness retreats fell into administration this week. Birch Cheshunt (pictured) closed with immediate effect while Birch Selsdon is looking for a new owner – just a week after highly rated Pensons at the Netherwood Estate on the Herefordshire/Worcestershire border also announced its imminent closure. Both Birch […]
A new Italian neighbourhood restaurant has opened on the former site of hip natural wine bar Peg, in Hackney’s Morning Lane. Dalla has been created by Naples-born brothers Gennaro and Gianmarco (ex-Claridge’s) Leone, along with Mitchell Damota, former head chef at P Franco. Gennaro, who runs the design gallery Spazio Leone in Lower Clapton, has […]
