Fitzrovia, Middle Eastern Restaurant Guide

Influenced by the modern wine-focused restaurants of Athens – photographer Jenny Pagnoni’s Fitzrovia two-year-old specialises in Greek and Eastern Mediterranean dishes (many seared in the Josper oven). Feedback remains limited but is upbeat: “delicious food, marvellous service and a beautiful venue”.

“Excellent Middle Eastern cooking, with some inventive dishes and excellent vegetarian options” continues to win applause for this grillhouse near Great Portland Street (sibling to Honey & Co). “First-class natural ingredients are perfectly seasoned and prepared”: “in the wrong hands, these simple dishes could be bog-standard, but are lifted by excellent preparation (for instance, a simple tomato salad with a super, herby dressing)”. “Shame the restaurant is so Spartan, noisy and uncomfortable”, though – “it’s not the place for a night out, but good for lunch or a quick bite”. Top Menu Tip – the cheesecake, which Giles Coren from The Times says is “the business… life-changing. Epochal. Aeonic”.

“Intriguing twists on the kebab theme” (plus “good beer brewed on site” at the Kraft Dalston branch) continue to win consistently good ratings for this expanding chain, which in September 2022 adds a 20-seater in Brixton to its roster of locations. See also Kebab Queen.

Initially launched as part of an invite-only private members’ club, John Javier’s small (34-cover) August 2022 newcomer in Fitzrovia is his first venture featuring Middle Eastern cuisine, zhushed up with – for instance – Asian seasonings, plus funky cocktails and wines. Expect Bedouin-style décor, DJs and live music.

“Prepare to be blown away by the flavours at this tiny spot in Spitalfields” – its “absolutely brilliant vegetarian and vegan”, Middle Eastern-inspired dishes “truly sing”, delivering “a taste explosion” such that “carnivores will not miss the meat” (“the charred oyster mushroom skewers are stunning… thinking about the labneh, hummus and laffa bread makes me salivate!”). Having opened it in 2019, Marc Summers launched a 50-cover sibling in Soho in July 2022 on the former site of Vasco & Piero’s Pavilion (see also), complete with open kitchen and counter-style dining. The chef is rising star Helen Graham.