St James's, Italian Restaurant Guide

“A good choice for a light meal in the centre of own, with a broad menu of uncomplicated dishes to suit most people”, and offering “a delicious and authentic taste of Italy” – that’s how their large army of followers see Angela Hartnett’s “buzzy” and “unpretentious” cafés, proclaiming them “a decent effort all in all”. Major complaints are few, but ratings overall end up middling due to gripes of “tired” décor; or culinary results that are “OK but nothing special”. Top Menu Tip – “the arancini are always worth a go”.

This “conveniently placed old favourite”, on a St James’s corner, serves “above-average Italian” including “particularly good fish cooking”, backed up by an “intriguing wine list with some unusual choices”. Nobody would accuse it of much in the way of pizzazz, but even those who say it’s “middle of the road and time for a revamp” still rate it well all-round.

“A real ‘find’ amongst the big beasts”, tucked away in a St James’s alleyway, “this small family-run Italian is welcoming and good value” – “intimate when quiet, a nice buzz when fuller”. They are “clearly passionate about their ingredients”, and offer “absolutely delightful service”.

“The original location is by far the best” – “almost Continental in feel, and opposite the back entrance of the Royal Academy in Burlington Arcade”: “a regular haunt” for Mayfair types where “a seat at the bar is the best possible place in the world”. “Always buzzy and with exceptional Bellinis, it’s best for breakfast or brunch”. On the downside, “the high prices of the food reflect the area and locale”. Its simpler spin-offs (most notably pizza joints in Soho and Shoreditch) capture a fragment of this “fun and upmarket” style.

The jury is still out on this ultra-high-end Italian following its lockdown-delayed 2021 opening in the Mayfair premises formerly occupied by Nobu Berkeley (RIP). It’s a “lovely space” with a “great fit-out”, and “the fish is fantastic” – so “all the ingredients are there and it could become really good once it has shaken down”. On the debit side, it’s “ridiculously overpriced” (which it needs to be to cover the rent, a local record). Owned by the Ferragamo fashion family, it’s named after their Tuscan estate, whose produce and wine are on the menu.

“The glitz, the glamour, the bling” – this Mayfair outpost of Mikhail Gokhner’s Moscow-based chain dishes up wood-fired pizza and Italian comfort food with mixed results: to critics it’s extravagant pricing is far too OTT, but there is also the odd fan who “wanted to dislike it but was charmed”.

“A perfect pre-theatre choice that’s quick and classy” – these West End pasta-stops off Trafalgar Square and in Soho provide “excellent pasta, reasonable prices and a speedy turnaround”. “Buzzy rather than comfortable (many tables only have stools), really keen nearly all Italian staff provide the (fairly) limited menu” – “fab fresh pasta” with “modern Italian flavours” that’s “not complicated, but done with precision”, all “at an amazing price”.

This swish “old-fashioned Italian” with “very smooth and welcoming staff” has “real style” befitting its environs alongside the bespoke tailors of Savile Row (for which it is named). Owned by D&D London, the kitchen nowadays is run by distinguished Calabrian-born chef Francesco Mazzei. Prices have never been bargain basement here, but most reporters reckon the expense is “worth it for the excellent cooking using top-class ingredients” and the “divine selection of Italian wines”.

“Simple Italian dishes”, with everything freshly made in the kitchen, are on the menu at this ten-year-old independent in Soho, whose standout culinary feature is the range of house-made vermouths in the bar. Praise is pretty muted, though – and “the room really lacks something despite good service”.

“Wildly popular for its diverse offering of small plates of terrific and original Italian regional cuisine”: Jacob Kenedy’s “relentlessly busy” (“cramped and noisy”) West End venue is many reporters’ first choice for a favourite London Italian. Aided by a convenient situation, just a short stroll from Piccadilly Circus and “well-located for the theatres” – it’s become a regular feature in the list of Top-20 London restaurants in our annual diners’ poll. The selection of carefully researched and sourced Italian ‘tapas’ are “reliably original and sometimes surprising”; and matched with a “hugely varied” Italian wine list. The food rating slipped a tad this year, though, due to gripes of some dishes “lacking their customary perfection” or “leaning towards being overpriced”. “It’s a fairly small, intimate venue with counter seating at the front, where you can watch the chefs cook, as well as some more relaxed and comfortable tables at the back” (most regulars feeling it’s “best at the bar”). Top Tip – “superb negronis and stuffed olives and the risotto is always top notch”.

The “superb Italian food and great wine list” are everything you would expect from its ownership, the Florentine Frescobaldi dynasty, bankers to English monarchs as far back as Edward I, who have been producing wine on their Tuscan estates since 1308. Needless to say, the opulent venue is “very expensive”, but comes into its own in warm weather, with a “large outdoor terrace right in the heart of Mayfair that’s perfect for spring and summer”.

“A great place for a bowl of really well-executed pasta after a hard day’s shopping or pre-theatre”. “It’s only a shame that this Soho pasta-café is almost the only place you can now experience Stevie Parle’s lovely cooking”.

“Technically accomplished”, Italian-inspired cuisine (which, at heart, is quite “classical”) from Angela Hartnett, served “in a sophisticated-yet-relaxed setting, by outstanding-yet-unobtrusive staff” continues to inspire the many fans of her unflashy-yet-luxurious venue in Mayfair. But, while most diners applaud its overall performance, it has inspired a variety of gripes of late: the décor can be too “muted” for some tastes, and some repeat visitors have admitted to feeling “underwhelmed” of late by the odd “uninspiring” dish. On most accounts, though “the main difficulty here is answering the question: ‘how many courses?’” (the options being a 3-course, 4-course, 5-course or 6-course meal).