St James's, Indian Restaurant Guide

The “standard-bearer for subcontinental food in London” – the Sethi family’s “exceptional” Mayfair destination nowadays ranks in the Top-20 most-mentioned restaurants in our annual diners’ poll, and is the highest-ranking Indian. “An amazing selection of traditional dishes not found anywhere else” delivers “top-quality flavours relying on taste, not heat” (“so delicious, I couldn’t stop eating!”), all in a “vibey” two-floor setting, with Indian-inspired décor referencing Indian clubs and mansions. “Unbeatable… if you can get in, that is…”

Approaching its centenary, London’s oldest Indian, near Piccadilly Circus, continues to thrive as part of the high-quality group that also owns Chutney Mary. It may be an “old favourite” for many fans of decades’ standing, but the “relaxing” interior is modern and without any ‘heritage’ appeal. “Service is friendly and professional – not pushy, but there when you want them” – and the cooking has “sublime flavours and fragrances”.

A trip to the “wonderful, fun cocktail bar” makes a brilliant introduction to this “spacious, elegant and bustling” operation, whose “marvellous décor truly gives it character”. The original venture of Ranjit & Namita Mathrani, plus the latter’s sister, Camellia Panjabi (who also now own Amaya, Veeraswamy and Masala Zone), it moved several years ago from SW10 to this swanky St James’s address. The “sophisticated Indian cooking” has “superb spicing” with plenty of “depth and complexity” and “wonderful” flavours, and amongst London’s posh Indians it remains one of the best known.

As 10CC might have put it: “We don’t like Kricket… we love it!”. “Brilliant Indian sharing plates with an emphasis on taste, not heat” have bowled a hat-trick of successes for Rik Campbell and Will Bowlby since their street food pop-up went permanent in Soho, Brixton and White City. Their “interesting and flexible” small-plate menus are served in a “cool, vibey atmosphere”, either eating at the counter or at tables – with more vibes next door in their speakeasy bar Soma for diners in Soho.

“I have yet to find the person who does not absolutely love Dishoom!” – Shamil and Kavi Thakrar’s “must-visit chain” remains our poll’s most-commented-on group, on the strength of its “exceptional” homage to the Irani cafés of Bombay. “A sense of nostalgia for a vanished India and quirky colonial notices add to the fun” of its “cool”, “evocative” branches, where “outstanding staff, even when very busy” (which is to say always) preside over “borderline hectic” conditions with great verve and efficiency. The “slightly different Indian food” (“with spice rather than heat”) is “far better than it has any right to be” given the volumes it’s served in… “superb”… “so consistent” and “extremely fairly priced” too. The “left field” breakfast menu is famous nowadays, and “awesome bacon and egg naan rolls” have “redefined what brekkie is all about” for many Londoners. Founded in 2010, they will hit six branches in London in 2022, with a big (355 covers) new Canary Wharf outlet, complete with a bar and terrace overlooking the docks. On the downside, bookings at all the outlets are restricted and “queues are half way down the street”. “It’s worth it though!!”. Top Menu Tips – “Finally got to try the black dal… a big hug in a bowl” that’s “to die for” and “Ruby Murray is a family favourite”. And, with their burgeoning delivery business, “the fact you can now order the Bacon Naan for home consumption is a wonderful, wonderful thing”.

“Noisy and aptly named bustle” – this “well-executed and brilliant concept” (sibling to Jamavar) is inspired by the street food of Mumbai: a “deeply impressive range of dishes” and results are “mind-blowing” – with just “the right balance of spices and herbs”.

“An absolutely fabulous place”, this pioneer of upscale Indian food for almost 30 years (and the first in the world to bag a Michelin star) is flying high again after a major refurb doubled the size of its Mayfair premises a couple of years ago. “Despite newcomers” taking curry to new levels, fans say “this remains the best Indian food” – “the brilliant taster menu is exceptional and demonstrates the skill and versatility of the kitchen” (now run by Karunesh Khanna, formerly head chef of Amaya).

Atul Kochhar’s “inventive” Northeastern Indian cuisine (“light and not too rich”) continues to win a strong fanclub for this well regarded four-year-old in Mayfair. It would rate even higher, were it not for a few reporters for whom “it’s sound all around but just not that next-level I’d expect at the price point”.

Tapas based on Delhi street food is served in a roti at this Indian duo, with branches in Soho and in a smart hotel dining room near Marble Arch, for whom feedback remains limited but upbeat. (The Paddington branch has now closed).

This “sparky version of its parent Tamarind” in a “busy part of Soho” knocks out “delicious twists on quintessential Delhi street food” in a “large, stylish and comfortable dining room”. “Jovial staff” add to the “very special” package.

“Real Indian cuisine” – “exquisite flavours from top-quality ingredients and stunning preparation” – have won a major reputation for this “top-class Indian”, founded by Samyukta Nair, whose family own India’s luxurious Leela Palace group. It occupies a “fantastic”, tastefully decorated Mayfair site, near Berkeley Square: “quiet enough for conversation whilst busy enough to create a reassuring hum”.

“Absolutely delicious” Indo-Chinese dishes (inspired by the Hakka-influenced cuisine of Kolkata) makes it worth discovering these slightly offbeat eateries in Soho and Covent Garden: (“delectable chops, and it even converted me to liking okra!”).

Review: “I keep coming back for the reliably distinctive range of Indian dishes… when I’m pushed to try new things I rarely regret it” – the “always interesting menu” at these longstanding pioneers of street food and thalis delivers “very tasty grub in generous portions that’s good value for money”. It’s run by MW Eats (the family company behind some of the capital’s most prestigious subcontinental restaurants).

“Very tasty dosas” headline the “wide range of delicious, South Indian vegetarian dishes”, “with many unusual choices” at this “unassuming-looking” small chain, whose most central branch is just off Leicester Square. “The food is good enough even to silence grumbling carnivores like me!”

Rohit Ghai’s “comfy and stylish” Mayfair yearling offers a homely menu inspired by the chef’s Punjabi childhood. “Awesome” flavours from “the good variety of dishes” make it “a must-try” for fans. Sceptics, though – while acknowledging that “effort is put into both good food and service” – feel some results “lack punch” or “aren’t quite at the top levels of food from the subcontinent in London”.