St James's, French Restaurant Guide

“Paris comes to St James’s” at this “beautiful and buzzy” two-year-old, which has been one of the more impressive arrivals of recent years (it opened in autumn 2020). “Proper, well-executed French-brasserie food” (snails, crab salad, roast chicken, veal, steak and chips…) – “such a relief after all of the faddy nonsense dominating the London restaurant scene” – is delivered by “first-rate” staff throughout the day, from breakfast onwards. And together with the “amazing” high-ceilinged interior, the overall combination makes for a superb “all-round experience”, if one “with prices to match the location”. Top Tips – “the best dessert trolley in London!” and a “fun” basement wine bar called Frank’s.

“This beautiful and impressive dining room and outside terrace has a rich restaurant history” (most recently as Boulestin and L’Oranger), and its latest “pricey-but-good” incarnation is proving “a useful addition to St James’s”. “Solid and traditional” in style, it provides “accomplished French cooking and helpful service” in a luxurious interior that’s “very stylish and relaxed”. And come summer, “the courtyard is a destination” in itself.

“Asia meets France” at this Mayfair yearling from French TV chef Cyril Lignac, named after his Paris restaurant in St Germain des Prés. “There’s a large team of sushi chefs and the place has a lively, Parisian feel”, with “French desserts, which are superb” – as they should be, given that Lignac trained as a pâtissier. It’s no shock that the place is pricey, but fans say it’s worth it: “absolutely top class, can’t wait to return”.

“A real gem in the heart of Soho”, this little slice of Belle Époque Paris serves small plates of “proper bistro food in a proper bistro setting” – “not fancy, but delicious”. Founded by three French brothers and named after their mother, it celebrates its 10th anniversary this year.

“A unique feature in London’s dining scene” – this “incredible subterranean cathedral of Art Deco glamour and French classic cuisine” was created 10 years ago by Corbin & King in homage to the brasseries of Paris. It occupies a “vast” and “absolutely stunning Art Deco basement” (Grade I listed with “gilding, marble columns and red velvet seating”) and “what is so outstanding is to find a restaurant of this quality just a stone’s throw from Piccadilly Circus”. To be clear, the lengthy menu of brasserie staples “won’t surprise you” – the catering has always been “OK” at best, and the food score this year was beyond humdrum. But next to the “white tablecloths and terrific old-world atmosphere and buzz”; plus “formally attired” service that’s “efficient and charming”; then “the food is almost beside the point” and the availability of “some extremely cheap menus” underpins its “eyebrow-raisingly good value (so you can forgive it a lot)”. With the management changes within The Wolseley Hospitality Group just prior to our annual diners’ poll, many reporters feel “it’s sad to see the founders no longer involved” and continue to worry – “will its distinctive qualities be lost?” Top Tip – “try to go later in the evening when the band is playing for an authentic French vibe. Also pop into the Bar Americain for a pre- or post-dinner cocktail.”

With a menu inspired by the French Riviera, this spacious outfit in Golden Square “quickly became a firm favourite for business lunches”, despite the unfortunate timing of its launch in late 2019. Parisian patron Guillaume Depoix’s vision of the ‘perfect Soho brasserie’, it delivers “delicious French food done simply and well”, with a “great clubby feeling, especially when the DJ is there at weekends”.

With its marble bar and banquette seating, this gracious venue (which originally opened as Le Comptoir Robuchon in late 2019) near Shepherd Market is the September 2023 London flagship for the late Joel Robuchon’s global luxury restaurant chain (Robuchon International). London has not had an ‘Atelier’ since 2019, since which time its number of ultra-luxe restaurants has increased, so it will be interesting to see if this latest upgrading of the site makes waves as the WC2 branch once did.

The Selby brothers’ “very snug little basement venue for counter-top fine dining” shows “levels of skill and technique to compete with much better-known places that leave you with a far higher bill”; with cooking that’s “consistently well-thought-out, imaginative and bold”. “Ultimately there can be a clash between the expectation of enjoying fine cuisine and fine wines, while being perched on a stool with people brushing past”, so “file this under ‘one to watch’ as they plan to build out the ambition even further”.

“In an utterly fairytale setting full of glamour, you can’t help but feel a sense of occasion” on the “unbelievably OTT” top floor of this grand Mayfair palazzo: “from the entrance to the fine-dining experience, it makes for a fabulous date night!” But its “pocket-bursting prices” are a source of widespread complaint, and one or two reporters feel that its elevation by Michelin to its highest echelons was misjudged (“three stars! REALLY? Nowhere near”). While converts are “over the moon due to the stunning reality” of the “joyful intricacy of the cuisine” from a “wacky but delightful” menu designed (from afar) by Gallic superstar Pierre Gagnaire, others discern “a confusing medley of French fiddliness that feels rather outdated”. Service is “faultless” on most accounts, if “in the breathless French-formal style”. Top Tip – “best to go for lunch if you want value for money”.

You pay top dollar to eat quite literally inside an art installation in this room within Mourad Mazouz’s idiosyncratic Mayfair venue, where artist Yinka Shonibare’s pan-African vision replaced the former lurid pink-walled David Shrigley showcase in spring 2022. It makes for “great artefacts to look at”, while the food – either a lavish all-day ‘afternoon tea’ or dinner – is “very, very good”. “But my word it’s expensive” – even “unbelie overpriced” – is a repeated lament even from very enthusiastic reporters.

“Opposite Jason Atherton’s flagship in Pollen Street”, its “high-class and intimate” younger sibling is in a more straightforward bistro style, and offers “simple food done exceptionally well”. “Surroundings and service are warm” too, and “in summer you can eat outside on this pedestrianised street”.

“If all vegan food was as good as this I’d convert… it’s ceaselessly wonderful and served by brilliant staff in a fabulous setting” – that’s the most upbeat view on Alexis Gauthier’s “beautifully furnished and discreet townhouse smack in the middle of Soho”, where you ring a doorbell to gain entry. Having been resolutely carnivorous on its launch in 2010, Alexis went vegan personally in 2016, and since June 2021 he has taken the restaurant meat-free as well. On the plus side, this is now one of the most ambitious and successful meat-free restaurants in town. But on the downside, practically none of his old meat-loving regulars like it so much now (“it was an old favourite, and I was interested to try the all-vegan menu, but it wasn’t for us…”; “we so very much wanted to love this move to vegan cuisine from Gauthier Soho, but we were sadly disappointed…”; “excellent food, but I mourn the loss of the non-vegan options…”). Still, even those “who are not totally convinced” say “there is no doubt that Gauthier manages to marry vegan cuisine with a high-end, gourmet experience more successfully than most”. And “what is stunning is their wine flights, which are amazing!”

“Hidden right next to the horrors of Leicester Square!”, this 50-year-old wine cellar rates highly for its “really special ambience” and “knowledgeable and helpful” service. Will Clayton still runs the place on the lines laid down by founder Don Hewitson, although “the food offering has improved over time – not gourmet, but always a good pairing for the wine”. This year will see the millionth serving of the famous cheese & ham pie that is always on the menu.

The Côte d'Azur comes to Mayfair at this glamorous, “super-slick” and “always busy” operation, tucked away near Claridges, which – since 2007 – has led the way with its “fantastic, light small plates”: “not your typical French, heavy, creamy food” but heavenly dishes that “leave you feeling like you ate healthily”. Even those rating it “outstanding all round” can find it “overpriced” – a better verdict would be “expensive but worth it”.

“Affordable French bistro cooking”, a “wide range of dishes” and “decent portion sizes” make this Gallic outfit (like its nearby stablemate Pierre Victoire) “just the thing for a Soho bite”. It provides truly “exceptional value” for lunch and pre-theatre, but beware the price jump from 6pm, when it switches to an à la carte format.

On the prime but quirky St James’s site that was Sake No Hana (RIP), Arian and Alberto Zandi are to relaunch this 170-cover space in November 2022 (which also has a 35-cover terrace). This time, as the name hints, the culinary inspiration will be the luxurious lifestyle of the south of France.