London St James's Restaurant Guide

“Very peaceful… staff were lovely… we had an extra plate of sandwiches and I chose the mini set of Martini which were totally lush…” – this posh St James’s hotel’s top culinary attraction, according to our survey, is afternoon tea in its very comfortable drawing room or conservatory.

“Great name… even better food” say fans of this casual, Japanese-inspired dining experience within a Soho hotel, whose all-day dining possibilities (breakfast, lunch, dinner, and afternoon tea…) were conceived by star chef Garry Hollihead. Too limited feedback as yet, though, for a full rating of its mix of poke bowls, salads, sliders and main plates, complemented by an oriental cocktail list and sake menu.

These “slick and professional” Italians (offshoots of the national San Carlo chain) are “buzzy and convenient sorts of places, where you can enjoy an upbeat bite without hanging around too long”. They serve “an extensive menu of small Venetian sharing plates”: “at best they’re excellent” and almost invariably a meal is “good fun”. The best known outlet is steps from Piccadilly Circus – “it might look like a tourist trap in its prime location but it’s a reliable and smartly decorated venue”.

“A choice of four 8-course tasting menus and a fantastic selection of wines” greets visitors to this 1930s-style, oak-panelled chamber in Mayfair, which scored uniformly high marks this year for Sofian Msetfi’s accomplished, seasonal British cuisine. There are also vegetarian and vegan alternative menus (the latter of which requires 48 hours notice).

Sameer Taneja’s “exceptional” cuisine continues to maintain the high standing of this well-known Berkeley Square destination. Despite the odd “unexciting” report, most accounts are of “fabulous” meals from “a menu that’s very spice-led and refined-tasting”. Located on the first floor, its modern design “doesn’t feel too ‘posh Mayfair’ in ambience terms”, with meals here said to be “well-paced” and “refreshing”.

“A hidden gem in the heart of London” – this “discreet” dining room is tucked away in an Edwardian St James’s five star, but well worth discovering nowadays as its “top-of-the-range”, classic British cuisine is going from strength to strength, and its plush, traditional style is suited to many types of occasion including business and romance. In August 2021, Lisa Goodwin-Allen of Northcote in Lancashire (same ownership) was named as the new overseer from afar of the menu here. Perhaps she’s behind the boost in ratings, although there’s been no discernible revolution in its general culinary approach.

“Delicious” Spanish and Italian tapas and “a great choice of wines by the glass” win plaudits for this “romantic candlelit restaurant”, “tucked away conveniently behind Liberty just off Carnaby Street”. However, since its fabulous debut 15 years ago, it is undeniably “less superb than it used to be”, but “that’s partly due to standing still while everyone else continues to press forwards”.

Some “outstanding fine Japanese cooking” is reported at this upmarket St James’s basement, which has been through a number of names and owners in recent times, and re-opened in its current guise in Autumn 2021. It comprises a ground-floor bar, plus 70-seat subterranean dining space, incorporating three six-seat counters for teppanyaki, a robata chef’s table, and a sushi counter. There is still the odd “disappointing” report, but the overall direction of travel here seems promising.

Fine dining in the heart of MayfairExhale and relax after a busy day of exploring London in the warm, intimate surroundings of Butlers Restaurant. Renowned for serving London’s best Dover sole, filleted right at your table, our Executive Chef offe...

“An old classic that always feels fresh” – this spry 75-year-old Italian in St James’s is “very consistent” and provides “a lovely, busy atmosphere” that’s “suited to eating with clients or friends”. That it’s “a bit pricey” is a theme running through most reports on it, though (“very pleasant, but I have a strong sense that many – most? – diners are on expenses… lucky them!”; “…lovely for the deep-pocketed, with traditional fare that’s well done, but at astronomical prices”). Top Tip – “they do a decent line in business breakfast”.

“In a part of Mayfair heaving with Michelin stars, William Drabble and his team (operating out of a townhouse hotel) continue to knock it out of the park”, providing a “wonderful and very extravagant time”. “William is always in the kitchen where he belongs, not in the TV studios” and some fans feel he “doesn’t get all the plaudits he deserves” for his “exceptional cuisine, with big bold flavours. Nothing is done only for effect, as every ingredient on a plate serves a purpose. The tasting menu delivers upon this, course after course. Combine all that with knowledgeable and approachable staff and this really is a place to rave about”.

“A classic for oyster lovers!” – acclaimed Irish chef, Richard Corrigan, continues to be a superb steward of this 106-year-old veteran (established in 1916), cutely tucked away in a side street near Piccadilly Circus, which he has rebuilt over the years into one of the Top 40 destinations in our annual diners’ poll. “For outstanding oysters or fish, you can’t go wrong”, with tips including “cracking fruits de mer” and “simply delicious fish stew”. His “fabulous” and “professional” staff help create a “lovely” atmosphere, although the top ‘craic’ in the ground-floor bar is often tipped over the grander but more sedate upstairs restaurant. (Another excellent option, particularly in summer, is the superb heated outdoor terrace). On the downside, the pricing is somewhat “prohibitive of a frequent visit”, but fans say “despite the expense, a meal here is an all-round package that is predictable in a good way”. Top Menu Tips – “oh-so-tasty options from the specials board” and “ask for more soda bread!!”

This “sophisticated Italian restaurant” north of Pall Mall, from Sicilian-born Carlo Distefano’s national group, inspires relatively limited feedback despite (because of?) its heart-of-the-West-End location. It’s consistently well-rated, though – fans say it “can always be relied on for business and social meals”.

“Like a London club but with infinitely better food” – this “very civilised” St James’s veteran (London’s oldest restaurant, established in 1742, but not on this site) is “a real throwback to another era” (“it’s probably not the place to attract ‘influencers’, whoever or whatever they are!”). The menu (which majors in fish and seafood) is “as traditional as one can expect (as is the clientele)” – you are served “classic food, classically executed and classically served” and at its best results are “simply exceptional”. “Service is old-school professional” although, perhaps due to the strains of Covid, did not enjoy its customary 5/5 rating this year. Even so, Wiltons remains “a great place for meeting on business” and its pricing is such that it’s best to let the corporate credit card take the strain whenever possible. Top Menu Tips – “the Dover sole is still the best in the capital” and “their lobster thermidor is rich and everything you want in an indulgent food item”. Game is excellent in season and they do a “magnificent bone-in rib served from the trolley”.

“With its quietly thrumming ambience, well-spaced tables and unobtrusive service from staff used to looking after royalty”, this “eternally discreet” brasserie hidden in a cute Mayfair mews is a long-established favourite for a blue-blooded, establishment crowd (and “perfect for doing business in”). Elegantly suited owner, Gavin Rankin, smoothly commands the space – “his team are wonderfully welcoming” and “all this is supported by classic French food, an excellent and keenly priced wine list, and a set lunch menu that’s a bargain (ideal for when Finance put a cap on your entertaining budget)”. Top Menu Tips – “Martinis, oysters and staples like steak tartare are prominent”.

A very characterful Mayfair site – once a posh gentlemen’s outfitters and more recently a branch of Browns – now hosts this July 2022 newcomer (which opened too late to be included in our annual diners’ poll). Steaks feature prominently on a menu of ‘elevated’ British classics and there’s also a seperate all-day ‘tavern’ selection.

“One of London’s finest gastronomic experiences” – Victor Garvey’s “slightly unorthodox” Californian in Soho (’SO’ho via ’LA’) had its late-2019 debut slightly stymied by Covid, but is nowadays “consistently serving some of the most interesting food in London, using exceptional produce”; and with “brilliant ideas and concepts in each dish”. Staff are “chatty” – “overly so” for one or two diners, but “passionate and knowledgeable” to others – while the setting is “lacking atmosphere” or cleanly designed according to your taste. Dishes inspiring comment have included “amazing extra-large langoustines”, “superb tuna and caviar” and a “delicious grapefruit dessert”.

“A throwback to old-school dining” – this wittingly old-fashioned chain (created in the last 10 years) channels an imagined La Dolce Vita lifestyle into its “enjoyable if slightly stuffy” mix of chic Italian cafés and restaurants (if you are of a certain age, think 1980s Tatler). They look “pretty” and are “attractive in their own way”: “not bad if a bit overpriced”. That’s the kind view anyway: harsher critics say they “could do better” and “don’t deserve a revisit”. But they must be doing something right, as in July 2021 they opened in St John’s Wood.

“A quick lunchtime drink can turn into several hours of cocktails and delightful bites” at this St James’s institution: “a bar full of Americana and with staff who put on a great show of mixology”. The Med-inspired brasserie menu is arguably “limited” but suits the venue, which is a “very buzzy” and “efficiently run” space.

“Tucked away in Dukes Hotel, off St James’s Street”, this swish brasserie provides food that’s “remarkably good and relatively inexpensive”. “I have found it more or less empty at lunch-time, so peace and quiet reigns”, but arguably “it deserves better support”. Top Tips – “well-cooked breakfast” and “very reasonably priced set menus”.