London Clapham Restaurant Guide

“The neighbourhood Italian restaurant that you always wanted to have” is now chef Robin Gill’s Clapham flagship following the closure of near-neighbour Dairy (RIP). It’s “noisy and buzzy” in the proper Italian manner, and the cooking is “interesting and delicious”, with highlights including “arancini to die for”.

“Excellent modern Japanese food with a twist” has given this Clapham local a cutting-edge vibe that has barely faltered since its launch in 2001 by a trio of ex-Nobu chefs. Top Menu Tips – “perfect black cod (gin dara) and the best scallops ever: presented flaming in a sea shell with enoki mushrooms in a creamy chilli sauce with the crunch of tobiko. Sublime!”

“Fab” California-style pizzas (bigger and fresher toppings, apparently) are all you can eat at this handy converted public convenience next to Clapham Common tube, apart from the breakfast butties served until 2pm. There’s also red & white wine on tap, and own-label beers by the can.

With its inviting décor, this fast-expanding group has been a big “winner” since the pandemic, mushrooming to 18 sites, all of which have generally proved useful additions to their respective areas. But while “it certainly looks the part, and the staff look after you well enough”, the brunch-friendly fare can be hit ’n’ miss, with reports ranging from “surprisingly good” to “formulaic and really abysmal”. Top Tip – “always a top option for feeding the family”.

“You would pay a fortune to eat here if it was in Mayfair” – “Adam Byatt’s excellent flagship” near Clapham Common is “so much more than a neighbourhood local” and “perfect for a fancy meal, especially if you live in south London!” Often inviting comparisons with nearby Chez Bruce, with ratings tracking its rival’s closely, it is never quite as high in our ranking of London’s Top 40 most-mentioned destinations (and has taken a little more flak for “high prices” of late). “Tastefully decorated” – the fact that it’s “not pretentious, with just the right amount of friendliness from the staff” is key to its “pleasant” appeal, as, of course, is the “top-class food and wines”. Top Tip – a large outside terrace is a relatively recent addition.

Upstairs from Adam Byatt’s classy Clapham flagship Trinity, is “a casual space with big windows letting in plenty of light”. It’s frequented by locals in the know, who reckon that “Adam shoots and scores on a formula of tapas-themed sharing plates and accessible wine list”. A mild dip in ratings this year backs up those who feel it’s “slightly slipped from previous peaks”, but no-one questions that it delivers “delicious, albeit simple food” and it’s still very much “the local place to go if you can get a booking for a Sunday lunch”.

“Bright modern tapas with some old favourites” are on the menu at this “stylish” pair south of the river, named after the food market in Barcelona. “Consistently good cooking” and “reasonable prices” are the plus points, although they may “lack the extra zing of the very best places”.

Review: “Beautiful fresh pasta, served from the heart by knowledgeable Italians” is the attractive offer at this small group, spun out of a famous veteran Soho deli (est. 1944) in the past five years under private equity outfit White Rabbit. The “food is good and good value, though limited and very focused on the pasta”. There are now branches in King’s Cross, the City’s Bloomberg Arcade and most recently Marylebone; the farthest-flung is in Tokyo, while Clapham Old Town has been long promised.

“A great conversion of a big old pub in Clapham” – this November 2021 newcomer is the fourth site of the team behind Smokehouse, The Pig & Butcher and The Princess of Shoreditch. It’s a “stylish and high-spec” renovation to create a buzzy attractive space over two levels. The main area is “a bit of a noisy barn” – “the mezzanine (with views to the kitchen) is the more interesting/quieter area foodwise”. The menu has a sustainability focus (“the more ‘unfashionable’ meats: bone marrow, pig’s head, mutton”), but at the overview it “serves up really well-cooked British pub dining”.

“A new arrival in Clapham that’s making a really good name for themselves” as a “neighbourhood gem”. This small venture – the work of a husband-and-wife team – launched just before the February 2020 lockdown, and is finally winning recognition for its “really excellent Thai food: perhaps nothing ground-breaking, but the classics are prepared as well as I can remember having them in London in recent years”.

With its inviting décor, this fast-expanding group has been a big “winner” since the pandemic, mushrooming to 18 sites, all of which have generally proved useful additions to their respective areas. But while “it certainly looks the part, and the staff look after you well enough”, the brunch-friendly fare can be hit ’n’ miss, with reports ranging from “surprisingly good” to “formulaic and really abysmal”. Top Tip – “always a top option for feeding the family”.