Truro Restaurant Guide

This “hidden gem just outside Truro” from husband-and-wife team Ben & Sam Harmer features “impressive” cooking, “exceptional service” and a “splendid outdoor eating area” for warmer weather. Ben’s classical training took in the kitchens of The Savoy and Le Gavroche – hence “the soufflé is impressive”.

The last word in calm elegance on Cornwall’s south coast, Olga Polizzi’s famous former yacht club is “consistently classy”, with “good food, fantastic service” – and, inevitably, “prices to match”. The restaurant is open to non-residents but you need to book in the evening, while the Dogs’ bar and Beach Club offer more casual eating options.

This “glorious spot” by the sea, close to the SW coastal path and with a front-conservatory to take advantage of sea views, was taken over by high-profile chef Michael Caines of Lympstone Manor in 2020. Quell hopes of any culinary fireworks, though – reports here didn’t hit the heights this year, with the experience too often “let down by chaotic service and pedestrian food”.

“Great food, great beer, great staff – what’s not to like?” – Penryn-based Verdant craft brewery opened this tiny taproom just off the Falmouth seafront four years ago, matching their brews with a small-plates menu of French, Italian and more locally inspired seafood, ranging from fish balls and fish-finger butties to pan-fried gurnard with mussels and crab sauce.

South African chef Hylton Espey (formerly at Merchants Manor hotel) with his wife Petronella opened this July 2022 newcomer on Custom House Quay, just by the sea, with a hyper-seasonal approach including many foraged ingredients. His ‘Journey Menu’ provides seven courses for £65 per person and is served from an open kitchen, and design-wise the 30-cover room adopts a pared-back approach featuring bare brick-work, wood and steel.

“Great shellfish”, eaten at a “nice location on the edge of the cliff” with views over Swanpool beach and nature reserve, makes this comfortable spot an attractive option in all seasons. There’s a strong sustainability ethos, and the cooking is accurate. Worst comment? – The “brilliant scallops were slightly overpowered by the equally delicious sauce”.