London Lambeth Restaurant Guide

The “fantastic food” is in a very different league to that of most museum cafés, in this attractive space off the gorgeous courtyard of Lambeth’s Garden Museum, where former Padella chef, George Ryle, is responsible for “fresh and interesting cooking” with an Italian accent. But not all the typical norms have been neglected: there’s also “delicious coffee and cakes”.

This “busy Italian”, whose familiar ship has sailed behind Waterloo station for almost 50 years, has hosted countless pre- and post-theatre meals for audiences and cast from the Old Vic opposite. It’s “unchanged for decades, but actually very appealing as a result”. Though sometimes considered “expensive for what it is”, fans say the cooking is “cracking”.

This little-known “hidden Japanese gem” near the London Eye showcases the skills of chef-parton Daisuke Shimoyama, who spent six years as head chef at Umu in Mayfair before launching his own venture at this hotel in the former County Hall. His omakase “tasting menu is particularly impressive” and is matched by an interesting sake list selected by the chef, while budget options at lunchtime include a bento box.