London Southwark Restaurant Guide

“Just the place to stuff yourself silly with beef!”, say loyal fans of Roberto Costa’s successful chain, where you choose your cut from “amazing meat displays to get the juices flowing”: a formula that’s brought expansion over the years to six locations across the capital, including on Shaftesbury Avenue (where it’s branded ‘Teatro del Carne’). Ratings sank this year, though, on a number of “disappointing” reports, with recurring themes including “quality meat undermined by poor cooking” and “high prices for wines considering their middling status”.

“Really enjoyable Portuguese tapas” is served in this “lovely, light and airy space”, tucked under a railway arch, near London Bridge. Founded by Max Graham, from the Churchills port dynasty, fans even say it’s “reminiscent of early-years Barrafina”. Top Tip – “the tiny clams”. (Note: don’t be put off by the queue outside – it may be for the pancake shop in front!).

This “awesome little spot” near London Bridge (“handy for Tate Modern”) serves “fresh and really interesting” ‘British tapas’, including some “innovative vegetarian options”. Five years after the launch, founders Lucy Pedder and Natasha Cooke have a second venue, Pomelo, at the Goods Way food market in King’s Cross.

“Delicious shakshuka with maxing smoky flavours” is typical of the “colourful and flavoursome” brunch-friendly dishes at this “very buzzy if not loud” chain, known for its “top coffee” (which they roast themselves), and whose best-known sites are the Exmouth Market original and large Granary Square branch. Recently, they also added an opening in Canary Wharf and a brew bar at their Caledonian Road roastery (not listed), with further ‘measured expansion’ planned. For the most part, they are still mostly seen as a “reliable” choice for an “interesting and healthy” breakfast: “not everything is a hit but for a casual lunch I am pretty happy”. Top Tip – “when the sun is shining, it’s worth waiting for an outside table” in N1.

“Pizza with imported sea water from Naples! What’s not to like...?” ask fans of this studiedly authentic Neapolitan duo on Borough’s main drag and in St James’s Market. Portions are “generous”, too.

“Authentic and tasty dumplings” and other northern Chinese street-food classics make any of Wei Shao’s small group “a great standby for a quick and fun meal”. Some prefer to stay longer (“our family goes for a Sunday feast”) with the biggest range of dishes at the 120-cover flagship near Borough Market. There are also branches in Chinatown, Soho, and the Market Halls in Victoria and Oxford Street.

This “slurpy Japanese noodles” outfit has grown from a 2011 pop-up to a fledgling national chain (14 branches in London, plus Brighton and Brum). These days it “feels formulaic, but the ramen does the business – the tonkotsu (pork broth, from which the place gets its name) is satisfyingly porky and the chilli chicken has a spicy hum”. Critics are not so sure, pointing to “very disappointing noodles” and “drab stock”.

“Nando’s eat your heart out”, say fans of the “real” Portuguese peri-peri grilled chicken “and very tasty sides” at this “fun if busy, busy, busy” (to the point of being “overwhelming”) duo near Borough Market and Shoreditch (of which the former is by far the most commented-on). It’s backed by MJMK (who also run Kol, Lisbetoa et al) and a first central London branch seating 200 is set to open in 2022 in Mayfair’s Heddon Street.

“The really tasty and innovative modern Israeli cuisine never fails to impress” at former Ottolenghi chef Eran Tibi’s all-day venue in the “very hip setting” of a Southwark railway arch. “Every wine is from Israel – and ours were very good”.

“Very good-quality” tapas and a “nice, buzzy” atmosphere greet guests at this converted small backstreet pub near the South Bank, one of the longer-established Hispanic specialists in town. It’s a “favourite for a casual night out” and “conveniently located for the NT, Young Vic, Tate Mod and so on”.

“Amazing coffee” – “a wide selection from single estates that’s carefully selected and optimally roasted” – together with “well-paired pastries and cakes as complements” continue to make these “lively and fun”, artisanal brew stops “a good morning ‘perk me up’”, and some of the most popular destinations in town. Staff are “impressively calm and friendly” too; “worth queuing for”.

“Very reasonably priced, good food and great fun” is all yours for the taking at this former paper factory near Elephant & Castle, converted to host more than 40 different food and drink pop-ups. “You just wander from one to another, then find a place to sit and eat in the common area”, which includes London’s biggest beer garden – “a great outdoor space”. There are now three other MMs in London, following a concept launched in Italy (hence the name).

“The best-ever bao buns: so light and fluffy with absolutely delicious fillings” again win raves for this five-strong chain, backed by JKS Restaurants (which plans a Battersea opening later in 2022). “Worth queuing for, although happily they now take bookings”. Top Menu Tips – “very good Taiwan-style spicy beef noodles”; “the warm bao with horlicks ice-cream is the most unusual!”

“The best oysters and crustacea in a bustling market-facing venue” is how many restaurant-goers think of this “buzzy and packed” small group, whose SE1 branch at Borough Market is better known than its Battersea Power Station sibling. “Order from the blackboard for the freshest catch.” “You come for the seafood, not the sparkling repartee” and service “can get a bit frazzled”. (We have continued to list the South Kensington outlet, but as we go to press it is ‘temporarily closed’ due to staff shortages).

This “fun little restaurant in Borough Market” has pioneered “very interesting natural wines” and wood-fire cooking for more than a decade, building a legion of fans in the process. “Have lost count of the number of times I’ve stopped by for a glass of wine and cheesy puffs”, says one. “Sam [co-owner Samantha Lim] is the best host in London and the food matches the service in every way”. A second branch opened on Mare Street in Hackney in summer 2021.

“Reliably good fish and seafood” make this straightforward operation “an attractive option at the edge of Borough Market”. It’s a flexible spot, which makes for an easy transition between indoor and al fresco eating.

“The tacos are tasty and the margaritas are fab” at this “fun and feisty” Mexican duo – part of the Hart Bros’ empire (with the Borough Market original still being much more commented on than its Soho sibling, which opened in 2021 on the former site of Hix). “Sometimes the service is a little overwhelmed by how busy the place gets”, and the “cheerful” ambience can be a bit “chaotic” as a result.

“Still simply the best cheese toastie after all these years” – perhaps “the best you’ll ever find” – is to be treasured at the Borough Market stall of a Bermondsey dairy, which makes its cheese with organic cow’s milk from Chiddingstone in Kent.

“Excellent” Middle Eastern food – “lots of very tasty dishes, with the veggie plates taking the crown” – wins solid ratings for this former festival stall that has moved steadily upmarket over two decades, and now has a glass-fronted flagship at Borough Market, a restaurant in King’s Cross and an outlet in Selfridges’ food hall. For regulars, its revised menu inspires mixed feelings (“an improvement” to some, “a step back” for others).