Shepton Mallet Restaurant Guide

Adam & Martin Fellows’s “homely”, “small bistro” continues to inspire nothing but good vibes. “Very friendly and competent staff” deliver “good quality”, “expertly prepared” French food in “copious portions”. In 2024 it will hit its twentieth anniversary.

“Every mouthful is divine” at ex-Portland and Clipston chef Merlin Labron-Johnson’s “tiny restaurant in rural Somerset” that “dares to be different” – serving a set meal with no menu, “so you just sit back and await the surprises (you receive a menu sheet at the end of the meal)”. “I was absolutely stunned by the intensity of flavours, the simple presentation and responsible sourcing of ingredients”. “Some ingredients I had never tasted before, and the flavour pairings were creative and so exciting” – “what an incredible surprise, superb from start to finish”.

This “beautiful” eighteenth-century chapel was converted 15 years ago into an all-day restaurant-with-rooms, artisan bakery and wine shop, centred around a “fantastic” modern dining room. (In August 2022, after our annual diners’ poll concluded, founder Catherine Butler sold the business to the Stay Original Company, which has five other boutique hotels and pubs in the southwest, and pledged to carry on without major changes).

This “canteen in a converted barn” with “one or two more upscale menu items – for example, smoked local trout and excellent Devon scallops, with very good chips” – is attached to the rural gallery of Swiss contemporary art dealers Hauser & Wirth, and is named after Dieter Roth: one of the artists they represent. The venue kick-started their Artfarm hospitality spin-off, which has spawned rather grander projects in Mayfair and Los Angeles, and last year snapped up London’s Groucho Club.

“Love this place” – set in historic Hadspen House and its famous gardens (operated since 2019 as a luxury hotel, shop and restaurant by South African billionaire Koos Bekker and his wife Karen Roos, an ex-editor of Elle Decoration). It’s “beautifully done”, and the “wood-panelled restaurant in the old house, with its candlelit atmosphere”, makes an ideal setting for “a wonderful, surprising tasting menu”, which is “certainly not your usual country house hotel food” – and which includes pairings with cider produced on the estate. (“Perfect on a late summer evening as the sun finally sets after some great pre-dinner cocktails”).

“Fantastic for a foodie weekend” – this comfortably boho country-house hotel in the Mendip Hills from the Pig group owes its vibe to the shabby-chic interior designed by Judy Hutson, wife of Robin Hutson (ex-Hotel du Vin and Soho House) who founded the chain a dozen years ago with backing from Ineos billionaire Jim Ratcliffe. The 25-mile kitchen sourcing regime results in some “amazing local ingredients” on the table.

“Kind of a romantic and fantastic Scandi-Bristolian take on dining!” – “You’d have to go a long way to replicate this really original experience”, where you eat in the “special location of a marvellous Victorian walled garden with lovely views (of the Mendips)”. There’s a “very individual” menu prepared by head chef Mark McCabe with 14 courses for £150 per person: “just superbly executed, if expensive”.

The “food and wine are always interesting” and are “still as good as ever” at engaging Anglo-Scottish chef Gordon Jones’s former sandwich shop on the southern edge of town. There’s “a single tasting menu available” (the only choice is whether to have 7 or 9 courses) and it comes as a complete surprise, with each dish introduced as it arrives at your table (and no vegetarian or other options).

Owner Max Wigram has known Margot Henderson of Rochelle Canteen in Shoreditch since he was a teen and asked her to take over the stoves at this restored 17th-century Somerset inn with rooms, which is scheduled to reopen after refurbishment in November 2022. According to a September 2022 interview in Wallpaper, he asked her because he “wanted it to be really good, with no poncey rubbish” and it will open all day from breakfast onwards. There’s a walled garden which will come into its own in the summer months.

This plush June 2021 launch from an ex-Soho House team on the Duke of Somerset’s estate (it used to be named after him) offers a “brilliantly executed dining experience plus fantastic rooms to stay in”. FOH Ben Jones and chef Nye Smith “are an emerging force in great destination hospitality” – although they have yet to fully persuade reporters that they have achieved their stated aim of creating the ‘best pub in the South West of England’.