Soho, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

With its “sexy and atmospheric interior” and accomplished cuisine, the 10-year-old Soho branch of Jason Atherton’s ‘Social’ brand is a venue recommended both for business meals and for “secret assignations” – kick off the occasion in his speakeasy ‘The Blind Pig’, which is hidden upstairs.

“The kind of place to bring your lover” – this “perfect”, “sweet” townhouse is an “old-favourite”, whose “cosy, panelled and candle-lit” setting is perennially nominated as one of London’s most romantic. Despite its “Dickensian” charm, it has an “idiosyncratic”, even “groovy” vibe, inspired by its long-term independent owner, whose shop dealing in antiquarian prints is next door (and pre-dates the restaurant, which opened in 1985, by about a decade). From a slightly “limited” menu, the “robust and honest” cuisine “isn’t going to win any innovation awards, but is very well-executed” and well-priced; and it moves with the times. “The real attraction is the superb wines at non-greedy prices” selected by Edmunds (“not as broad a list as Noble Rot but much more affordable”), which helps fuel its “decadent and sexy” appeal. Service can be “hard pressed” but is “so friendly”. Top Tip – the basement has its plus points, but the best seats are on the ground floor.

“Always fun with the ‘Press for Champagne’ button!” – Leonid Shutov’s decadently boothed joint sets an extravagant tone, ideal “for special occasions” and also “taking the awkwardness out of any business lunch or dinner”. It’s “not a cheap option, though, so you have to like the guest...”. The luxurious food, including a selection of caviar, is “fair” – “stick with the classics (such as beef Wellington to die for) to avoid disappointment”. Fortunately, the wine is “not overpriced” thanks to a £50 mark-up limit which favours the top of the list. In late 2021, Shutov relaunched the glitzy offshoot in the City’s Cheesegrater, changing its name from Bob Bob Cité to Bob Bob Ricard City. Early reports say it’s “got a lot to live up to, but it turns out the vibe amongst the banks, bling and skyscrapers of the Square Mile really works!”. More spinoffs are planned, as in late summer 2022, the brand announced it has VC backing for national and international expansion.(Note: Bob Bob Ricard has raised funds for Ukraine and changed the spelling of chicken Kyiv following the Russian invasion).

“Charlie Taylor and his small team are brilliant hosts, striking the perfect balance of informality and professionalism to draw you into the intimate dinner-party style mood” at this tiny chef’s table experience in a Soho alleyway, whose menu is, in part, a showcase for owner Simon Rogan’s famous L’Enclume. “Don’t come expecting linen table cloths and flunkies: you are dining in an extended kitchen, so it only works if you want the food to be the star. And it’s truly stellar” – “strong classic flavour combinations inspired by seasonal produce”. One niggle repeated a couple of times this year: “numerous dishes seemed simply ready to plate” which can detract from the experience (“I was disappointed that all we really saw was the final touches to the preparation, it was fun, but I missed the opportunity to learn more about the food, as you can at some chef’s tables”). For the most part, though, few doubt that a meal here is anything other than “stunning”. Despite awarding L’Enclume three Michelin stars, the tyre men bizarrely award no stars here.

“Great atmosphere in the heart of Soho” is the big draw at this all-day brasserie from the Soho House group, which provides “simple food cooked well and friendly, attentive staff” – a winning package that’s particularly “perfect for breakfast” or “great for pre-theatre”.

“Jeremy Lee continues to deliver seasonal excellence in elegant surroundings with an atmosphere to match” at the Hart Bros’ “delightful” and “unfailing” bastion of old Soho (which also incorporates an eponymous members’ club for the foodie in-crowd on the upper floors of this rambling property, whose blue plaque celebrates former tenant, Karl Marx). Lee’s deft British cooking is “always thoughtful and cheering” and “the wonderful room is compact enough to ensure great service”.

“A wonderful themed entrance, through a bookcase in a library and down dark, futuristic stairs” sets an appropriate scene at this Marvel-themed basement (in association with Warner Bros), just off Piccadilly Circus. “The décor of the restaurant itself, though, contains rather less fantasy… without the entrance you might not even guess the Marvel-connection… it feels more jazz-age New York or an ocean liner”. (“Contrary to my impression from the website, it is essentially one big room containing most of the different restaurants and bars, although the differences between them are subtle.”) “The food is a mixed bag”: some items are “excellent”, but “despite the talented chef, other dishes are overpriced or subpar”. Overall, though, leaving aside the cartoonish prices, everyone accepts that there is some serious culinary endeavour going on here. And such feedback that we have on the most expensive option (the exotic tasting menu in the separate ‘Monarch Theatre’ experience) says it’s “exceptional”.

“A huge wine list packed with unfamiliar names” – all of them biodynamic or natural – “interesting, fairly priced, good-quality Mediterranean food” and a “guaranteed warm welcome” ensure this “fun place to eat always impresses”. Now in its second decade, the “cool vibe” and funky atmosphere make it a pleasant throwback to the Soho of years past.

“A quiet haven tucked away near Piccadilly Circus” – in summer, the outside courtyard is so peaceful it’s hard to believe just how central you are. “A lovely afternoon tea at sensible prices” is the top culinary attraction here. At other times, the “stylish” setting is “conducive to a relaxed meal” but its “bistro-style fare” is a case of “nothing to criticise, but with vastly better places in easy reach”.

“Creative food, interested staff and a pleasant space” (formerly Arbutus, RIP) have made this ‘farm-to-fork’ venue from the prolific Gladwin family “a great addition to Soho”. Launched in 2019, it’s their only outpost in the West End but they now have six London restaurants stretching from ‘The Shed’ in Notting Hill to ‘The Fat Badger’ in Richmond – this is the best-rated of the bunch.

“Jason Atherton certainly knows how to tart up traditional British fare”, according to fans of his “indulgent and delicious” cuisine within this “fabulous” space – a converted banking hall that’s part of Marriott’s glam, Ian Shrager-designed Edition hotel, north of Oxford Street. Ratings overall, though, are in middle territory, with harsher reports feeling it “rarely elevates above the level of a good gastropub”. Top Menu Tip – “the mac ’n’ cheese is simply the best”.

“Another reincarnation for the slightly cramped room above ‘The French’… and this is a good one!” – Neil Borthwick and his team produce “simple and gutsy food, with big steaks, fresh fish, and tasty Gallic classics on a daily changing menu which will leave you full and pleased that you visit the old place”: “a London fixture of decades’ standing”.

“A hidden gem in Soho” for œnophiles – this “lovely, intimate basement” has a “great selection of wines for the enthusiast”, including “old, rare and super-interesting bottles”, “from top producers and at affordable prices”. Founded by master sommeliers Gearoid Daveney and Xavier Rousset as the premises for Trade, a private club for people working in hospitality, it remains at its best as an after-hours option. There’s a “simple menu” of charcuterie, well-made cheese toasties and the like. Top Tip – “a dangerous joint to know about as it’s open till 3am on weekends!” (1am midweek).

The Selby brothers’ “very snug little basement venue for counter-top fine dining” shows “levels of skill and technique to compete with much better-known places that leave you with a far higher bill”; with cooking that’s “consistently well-thought-out, imaginative and bold”. “Ultimately there can be a clash between the expectation of enjoying fine cuisine and fine wines, while being perched on a stool with people brushing past”, so “file this under ‘one to watch’ as they plan to build out the ambition even further”.

“Opposite Jason Atherton’s flagship in Pollen Street”, its “high-class and intimate” younger sibling is in a more straightforward bistro style, and offers “simple food done exceptionally well”. “Surroundings and service are warm” too, and “in summer you can eat outside on this pedestrianised street”.

“After decades of being a Gay Hussar regular I now find myself at this fine replacement run by committed wine experts...” – this famous Soho address was resurrected in 2021 by Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew and fans are “happy to report standards just as high as at their original site in Holborn”. Star of the show is the “gargantuan wine list” – “a treasure trove of interesting bins” (albeit “with some jaw-dropping prices”) – “interpreted by knowledgeable and friendly staff”, who help maintain the “charming and quirky” atmosphere of this “solid and comfortable” site (which, as its predecessor, opened in 1953). The “food is not as exceptional as the wine” but the “gutsy and value-led menu” of “good ingredients, served simply” is generally well-reviewed for its “delicious and unpretentious” qualities. Top Tip – “excellent-value set lunch”.

“As good as ever” – this modern and understated Soho wine bar favourite provides “good food, if in rather cramped and noisy surroundings”. A key feature is its handwritten ‘Black Book’ which lists the fine wines available each day.

“A restaurant I love to return to more than any other!” – Jason Atherton’s “glamorous” and “lively” Mayfair HQ inspires dedication and adoration from its enthusiastic, large fan base: “exemplary cooking with imaginative touches” is the expected highlight and “it’s great seeing Jason so calm and professional at the pass, which comes through in the staff”. That said, ratings this year slipped due to a few more middling experiences: “I so wanted to like Pollen Street Social but it never quite reached the expected heights given the hype and prices!!” Top Tip – “a top spot for a business lunch or dinner”.

“Wow. Who would believe it? A vegan restaurant that’s amazing” – Rishim Sachdeva (ex-Fat Duck and Chiltern Firehouse) was a ‘hard-core carnivore’ until he challenged himself to see if he could create plant-based dishes that would satisfy himself as both a meat-eater and a chef. The answer was ‘yes’, the experiment changed his life, and he has spent three years doing pop-ups and residencies – most recently at a handy site just off Regent Street – while crowdfunding to raise capital for a permanent site. He has also gained a body of fans who have “visited several times for the unusual combinations and elevated vegan plates”, which represent “superb value for money”. Note – technically, Tendril is “mostly vegan”, with cheese making an occasional guest appearance.

This 100-cover, autumn 2022 Soho newcomer is the work of Guy Ivesha (founder of Mortimer House) and has well-known chef Tom Cenci (whose CV includes Duck & Waffle) as executive chef. A casual bistro format is the aim, delivering a classic seasonal menu. It will sit on the ground floor of 1 Warwick, a sibling members’ club to the original.