Chelsea, French Restaurant Guide

“You could be in Paris… except the staff are nicer” at Didier Garnier’s stalwart “absolute old favourite” in a quiet Chelsea backstreet. For its silver-haired Francophile following, it ticks all the boxes for “a proper French restaurant”, serving ultra-classic bistro fare (“the menu changes rarely”), “wonderful desserts” and a “fabulous Gallic wine list at very reasonable prices”. More sceptical reporters feel it’s “delightful”, but that “it’s a pity they don’t put a bit more effort into the cuisine”. They are drowned out, though, by the proportion who feel that “for a very relaxing meal, there’s nowhere better”. Top Tip – “try and get a table under the awning”.

Fans do rave over the “beautiful cuisine from wonderful Matt Abé”, “exceptional” service and “memorable” all-round experience created by the f-word chef’s original HQ. And there’s little question that the classical-ish cuisine here is highly “technically accomplished”, service “friendly and well-informed” (“too much of it, if anything”) and the overall impression “classy”. But it continues to struggle against diners’ sky-high expectations, often inspired by Michelin’s somewhat unfathomable continuation of its three-star rating promoting it as being at the very pinnacle of UK dining. A relatively small venue in deepest Chelsea, “the dining room has the air of an art deco cruise ship, with its neutral tones and carpet”, all of which creates a setting that’s “tranquil”, but too “cold” or “bland” to some tastes. And when it comes to gastronomy, a typical critical report of the cuisine would be that it’s “not bad, some of it very good, but… frankly I was expecting outstanding… and it was a far cry from that… to the extent it was my biggest disappointment of the year”. It doesn’t help that it’s “hugely expensive, which always puts on the dampers”. (Footnote – a number of reporters wish ex-maître d’ Jean-Claude Breton well: “thank you JC, enjoy your very well-deserved retirement!”)

With its “light-filled setting and high ceilings”, this “beautiful and iconic dining room” (converted in 1987 by the late Sir Terence Conran) on the first floor of South Kensington’s landmark Michelin Building makes an “impressive” choice for either a business meal or a date, and is “best seen at lunchtime”. Over the five years since Claude Bosi took over the stoves, he has started to make the venue his own, and many reports this year are of a “stupendous culinary experience” thanks to his “incredible” and “inventive” cuisine, matched with “an amazing cellar” and provided by “attentive but not over-pompous staff”. The caveat is an obvious one – a meal here comes “at a cost…”