Soho, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

“A true Soho classic”, with “the most fun front-of-house staff in London” and “fantastic fresh seafood” – served for the past quarter-century in a “lovely old butcher’s shop” from 1911. “It isn’t that romantic, but you can have the best times in this delightful spot”, which is “great for pre-theatre or a post-matinee restorative”. “When in need of a pick-me-up, one can’t go wrong with huîtres and champers at R&A”.

“No frills or pretension – just generous platters of great seafood” in a “variety of options (raw and roasted)” help make the De Visscher family’s new import from Amsterdam into “a great addition to Soho”. “Unless you have a serious appetite, the plates may serve two or even three with a bowl of fries, making the evening a steal.” And “it’s not a place to worry about table manners – just grab one of their complimentary bibs and your claw crackers and have at it!”

“Does what it says on the tin”, with “no delay making choices”. This “simple, good and easy” surf-and-turf chain has grown to nine sites in the capital in 11 years – most with “sufficient space to eat and talk” (rare enough in fast-food joints). The formula is working around the world, too, with openings from New York to the Genting Highlands in Malaysia. “Love the way they give you plastic sheets to cover yourself from flying bits of lobster!”

This long-planned and long pandemic-delayed Soho seafood restaurant may be delayed still further by the management changes at Corbin & King, now renamed as The Wolseley Hospitality Group. It is envisaged as a ‘fun and affordable’ venue along the lines of stablemate Brasserie Zédel. But – in the absence of Jeremy King and Chris Corbin – who will now provide the vision for recreating the original Manzi’s, which was, for decades, a treasured standby for theatregoers on the south corner of Chinatown?

“Wow! Wasn’t sure what to expect of the African food, but it was mind-blowing” – Adejoke Bakara’s “bold and beautiful” dishes win many converts to her “simple, warm and inviting” two-year-old in Brixton, where she channels her Nigerian heritage into contemporary West African cooking washed down with cocktails and funky wines. But does it risk over-exposure? A couple of diners this year judged it “overpriced for food that’s good but not exceptional”.

“Lovely fresh fish”, “cooked simply” and “at prices which should shame its neighbours”, is the attractive offer from this trio of straightforward seafood brasseries in some of the pricier parts of town – Covent Garden, Marylebone and Swallow Street, just of Piccadilly. Top Tip – “there’s a fishmonger’s attached”, so you can take some “high-quality fish” home with you.

From Cream Group (owners of Cirque le Soir, Restaurant Ours, Wild and The Windmill Soho), this July opening in Mayfair occupies the erstwhile 120-cover site of XO (RIP). Former Elystan Street head chef Toby Burrowes heads up an extravagant offering, which includes a £3,000 ‘sunken treasure’ caviar platter; and a cocktail listed at £5,000 (a rare 1950s gin and a bottle of 1970 Dom Perignon BTW). All good PR. Opening in mid-July 2022, this new spot calls itself a ‘clubstaurant’ – not a term we feel needs encouragement.